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  • Remanufacturing the HP Color LaserJet Enterprise M552, M553, MFP M577 series Black and Color Toner cartridges

    HP Color LaserJet Enterprise M553
    HP Color LaserJet Enterprise M553

    By Mike Josiah and the Technical Staff at Uninet

    The M552/553/MFP M577 series of multifunction color laser printers are based on a 40 ppm black and color 1200 x 1200 Dpi engine, (3600 DPI with RET). The cartridges are an all in one type cartridge that consists of the toner supply, drum, and waste chamber.

    The basic physical style of this cartridge is similar to others but there are some distinct differences in how the cartridge is built as well as how it works. All will be covered in the instructions.

    The 577 is the latest member of this series and comes packed with quite a few embedded security enhancements that can detect external threats, heal itself and even shut itself down, if necessary, to protect a network. We have had quite a few questions on this cartridge/engine recently so we are re-visiting it here. We will also cover the printing theory as it’s a bit different.

    The 552 and 553 came with some specific cartridge security that is no longer used in the newer machines. They do still use JetIntelligence though.

    The printers based on the M553 engine are the:

    HP Color LaserJet Enterprise M552n
    HP Color LaserJet Enterprise M552dn
    HP Color LaserJet Enterprise M552x
    HP Color LaserJet Enterprise M553n
    HP Color LaserJet Enterprise M553dn
    HP Color LaserJet Enterprise M553x
    HP Color LaserJet Enterprise MFP M577dn
    HP Color LaserJet Enterprise MFP M577f
    HP Color LaserJet Enterprise flow MFP M577c
    HP Color LaserJet Enterprise flow MFP M577z


    The cartridges used in the M553 engine are the:

    CF360A (Black) 508A 6,000 pages $166.99 List*
    CF360X (Black HY) 508X 12,500 pages $232.99 List*
    CF361A (Cyan) 508A 5,000 pages $207.99 List*
    CF361X (Cyan) 508X 9,500 pages $321.99 List*
    CF362A (Yellow) 508A 5,000 pages $207.99 List*
    CF362X (Yellow) 508X 9,500 pages $321.99 List*
    CF363A (Magenta) 508A 5,000 pages $207.99 List*
    CF363X (Magenta) 508X 9,500 pages $321.99 List*
    B5S62A (Toner collection unit) $17.99 List*



    * Pricing current as of February 2020.

    The Color toner cartridge printing process happens in a series of stages or steps. For the purpose of this article, we will call them stages. Figure A shows the basic layout of the cartridges and how they relate to one-another and the printer. Note that the laser units are on the bottom, the cartridges are at an angle, and the ITB is on top. Figure B shows the complete image formation process.

    Figure A
    Figure A



    Figure B
    Figure B



    In the first stage, light from the pre-exposure LED strikes the drum to remove any residual charges from the drums surface. See Figure C. This LED erases all residual images and charges. In older the machines the PCR ran a DC and an AC voltage. The AC was to help erase any residual voltages. In newer engines the PCR charges the drum only and the LED erases. So, if you’re getting ghosting and/or backgrounding it’s not the PCR but most likely is a dirty LED lamp.

    Figure C
    Figure C



    Then the Primary Charge Roller (PCR) places a uniform negative DC voltage on the OPC drum surface. The amount of the negative DC voltage placed on the drum is controlled by the printer’s intensity setting. See Figure D

    Figure D
    Figure D



    In the second stage, a laser beam is fired onto a rotating mirror (called the scanner). As the mirror rotates, the beams are reflected into a set of focusing lenses. The beams then strike the drums surface, reducing the negative charge and leaving a latent electrostatic image on the drum. The areas where the lasers did not strike the drum will retain the higher negative charge. See Figure E

    Figure E
    Figure E



    The third or developing stage is where the toner is developed on the drum by the developing section (or supply chamber), which contains the toner particles. The development stage is actually made up of two steps: toner charging, and the actual development. In the toner charging stage, the toner stirring blade turns inside the hopper. As it turns, friction causes a negative potential to develop on the toner. In addition, a foam feed roller brings the toner to the developer roller and also places a negative charge on the toner. These two charges help ensure a uniform charge on the toner. Once the toner is properly charged, the toner will coat the developer roller. The toner is also held onto and attracted to the developer roller by another negative DC bias voltage. This voltage is controlled by the printer’s intensity setting and causes either more or less toner to be attracted by the developer roller. This in turn will either increase or decrease the print density. The amount of toner on the developer roller is controlled by the doctor blade, which uses pressure to keep the amount of toner on the roller constant.

    As the laser exposed areas of the OPC Drum approach the developer roller, the toner particles are attracted to the drum’s surface due to the opposite voltage potentials of the toner, and laser exposed areas of the OPC drum. See Figure F

    Figure F
    Figure F



    The fourth stage is the transfer stage. This is where there are some large differences from monochrome printers and also from other color lasers. In the Primary transfer stage, the transfer roller which is located directly opposite each OPC drum, places a positive DC bias charge on the back of the ITB or Image Transfer Belt. Each toner cartridge has a separate transfer charge roller. The image is transferred from the drum directly to the ITB. This process is repeated for each color cartridge in the following order: Yellow, Magenta, Cyan, and Black. At the same time, the paper is moving between the Secondary transfer roller and the ITB. As the ITB passes the Secondary transfer roller, the positive charge is picked up, and draws the negatively charged toner off the Belt and onto the paper. Note that this entire process is upside down from most previous Hp engines. The ITB and transfer rollers are on top of the OPC drum, not underneath it. See Figures G & H

    Figure G
    Figure G



    Figure H
    Figure H



    The paper separates from the ITB belt as the belt turns back down to start the process again. The static charge on the back of the paper is decreased with static charge eliminator. This helps stabilize the paper feed, and also prevents toner flares (spots) under low temperature and low humidity conditions. See Figure I

    Figure I
    Figure I



    In the fifth stage, the image is then fused onto the paper by the fuser assembly. The fuser Assembly is comprised of the upper heating assembly and lower pressure roller. The lower pressure roller presses the page up into the upper heating assembly which then melts the toner into the paper. This heating assembly consists of a flexible sleeve with a ceramic heating coil inside. This type of fuser affords “instant on” fusing with little to no wait time, and low power consumption. See Figure J

    Figure J
    Figure J



    ITB Cleaning:

    The ITB is cleaned by the ITB cleaning blade. The ITB wiper blade scrapes off the residual toner and an auger moves the toner to the toner collection box. See Figure K

    Figure K
    Figure K




    OPC Drum Cleaning:

    The drum is cleaned after the image is transferred to the paper by the wiper blade. This part is fairly standard; the wiper blade scrapes the toner off the drum, and the recovery blade guides it into the waste chamber. See Figure L

    Figure L
    Figure L



    These printers can print in full color or in black-only modes. To print in the black only mode, the printer disengages the developer rollers in the cyan, magenta, and yellow cartridges. This process also takes place with the Primary transfer rollers and the ITB belt. See Figures M & N

    Figure M
    Figure M



    Figure N
    Figure N



    Cartridge troubleshooting will be covered at the end of this article.



    Required Tools

    1) Toner approved vacuum.
    2) A small screw driver (Common Style)
    3) A Phillips head screwdriver
    4) Needle Nose Pliers
    5) Spring hook

    Supplies Required

    Toner for use in the HP M553 series
    New replacement chip
    New Long-Life Drum
    New Wiper Blade
    Drum Cover
    New Doctor Blade (optional)
    New Doctor Blade Shims (optional)
    New Recovery blade (optional)
    New Developer roller sealing blade (optional)
    Lint free Cloths
    Conductive grease
    Isopropyl alcohol
    Cotton Swabs


    The pins in these cartridges are stepped. In other words, the outside is thicker than the inside. To remove the pins, you must carefully shave the plastic away from the pins. The procedure is described below

    1) Remove the springs from both sides of the cartridge. See Figures 1 & 2

    Figure 1
    Figure 1



    Figure 2
    Figure 2



    2) With a razor knife, carefully shave the plastic from the heads of the hinge pins on both sides of the cartridge. For a cleaner look you can shave off the outer cover and then drill 2 small holes next to the pin to give the flush cutting wire cutters a place to grip the pin. See Figures 3,4,5 & 6

    Figure 3
    Figure 3



    Figure 4
    Figure 4



    Figure 5
    Figure 5



    Figure 6
    Figure 6



    3) Remove the pins with flush cutting wire cutters. The smaller pin fits on the chip side of the cartridge, the long pin on the label or gear side. See Figures 7 & 8.

    Figure 7
    Figure 7



    Figure 8
    Figure 8



    4) Lift the two halves apart. See Figure 9

    Figure 9
    Figure 9



    5) On the waste chamber, remove the two screws from the drum gear end cap. Press in on the tab as shown and remove the end cap. There is no need to remove the opposite side end cap. See Figures 10 & 11

    Figure 10
    Figure 10



    Figure 11
    Figure 11



    6) Remove the drum. See Figure 12

    Figure 12
    Figure 12



    7) Remove the PCR. See Figure 13

    Figure 13
    Figure 13



    8) Remove the two screws from the wiper blade. Slide the razor knife along the back edge of the blade to release it from the glue. Remove the Wiper blade. See Figures 14, 15 & 16.

    Figure 14
    Figure 14



    Figure 15
    Figure 15



    Figure 16
    Figure 16



    9) Clean out all the waste toner from the chamber. Try not to get any toner on the WB seal if possible.

    10) Clean the felt seals on each end of the wiper blade. If the WB glue has toner on it, clean it off with alcohol and a foam swab. If it does not become sticky again, it needs to be removed and a good silicone caulk used to seal the blade off. GE 100% Silicone and Phenoseal are two good brands for this. See Figure 17

    Figure 17
    Figure 17



    11) Install a new, lubricated wiper blade and 2 screws. If you removed the WB glue, seal the back edge of the blade with the silicone now. See Figure 18

    Figure 18
    Figure 18



    12) Clean the PCR with your preferred cleaner and install in the cartridge. Note there is conductive grease on both sides of the PCR axle. If worn or dirty, clean the axles and holder with alcohol and replace with conductive grease. Replace with the same amount that was there. More is NOT better! See Figures 19 & 20

    Figure 19
    Figure 19



    Figure 20
    Figure 20



    13) Clean and replace the conductive grease on the drum axle. Install the drum. Short hub side onto the long drum ground pin. See Figures 21 & 22

    Figure 21
    Figure 21



    Figure 22
    Figure 22



    14) Install the end cap and two screws. See Figure 23

    Figure 23
    Figure 23



    15) Place the waste chamber aside.

    16) On the supply chamber, remove the two screws from the gear side end cap. See Figure 24

    Figure 24
    Figure 24



    17) Remove the end cap. Note that almost all the gears stay in the end cap! See Figures 25 & 26

    Figure 25
    Figure 25



    Figure 26
    Figure 26



    18) On the contact side, remove the 2 screws, pry out on the tab and remove the end cap. See Figures 27 & 28

    Figure 27
    Figure 27



    Figure 28
    Figure 28



    19) Remove the three developer roller drive gears. See Figure 29

    Figure 29
    Figure 29



    20) Remove the developer roller. See Figure 30

    Figure 30
    Figure 30



    21) Remove the two screws from the doctor blade. IMPORTANT: The Right (Gear side) screw uses a LEFT-HAND THREAD! Lift the blade up and twist so that it comes free from the cartridge. KEEP THE LEFT-HAND THREADED SCREW SEPERATE! See Figures 31 & 32

    Figure 31
    Figure 31



    Figure 32
    Figure 32



    22) Remove the contact side inner end cap. See Figure 33

    Figure 33
    Figure 33



    23) Remove the round white felt washers from both sides of the feed roller. See Figure 34

    Figure 34
    Figure 34



    24) Carefully pry around the clear bushing that holds the feed roller in place. The plastic bushing can be removed by carefully prying it up with a small screwdriver from all around the edges. If you choose not to do this, you can melt a small hole in the supply chamber to clean the chamber out. See Figure 35

    Figure 35
    Figure 35



    25) Remove the feed roller. See Figure 36

    Figure 36
    Figure 36



    26) These cartridges have a self-removing seal that is not accessible from the outside of the hopper. Figures 37 and 38 show a new hopper with and without the seal. No replacement seals are currently available.

    Figure 37
    Figure 37



    Figure 38
    Figure 38



    27) Clean out the remaining toner and fill with the correct color of toner for use in the M553 series toner. See Figure 39

    Figure 39
    Figure 39



    28) Install the feed roller. Pointed end to the open side. See Figures 40 & 41

    Figure 40
    Figure 40



    Figure 41
    Figure 41



    29) Install the clear plastic bushing. Use a very small amount of a silicon sealer to make sure there are no leaks. Be careful to keep the silicon around the outside edges. See Figure 42

    Figure 42
    Figure 42



    30) Install the feed roller felt washers. See Figure 43

    Figure 43
    Figure 43



    31) Use the appropriate shims to gap the blade and install the doctor blade and two screws. Make sure the sticky seals on either rend of the blade seal correctly. If the material is no longer sticky clean it with alcohol or replace it with a small amount of silicon. Leave the right side “Left hand screw” partially installed. See Figure 44

    Figure 44
    Figure 44



    32) Install the inner contact end cap. See Figure 45

    Figure 45
    Figure 45



    33) Install the left-hand doctor blade screw fully. This screw fits into a post on the inner end cap. The DB is hard to install correctly if the inner end cap is already in place. See Figure 46

    Figure 46
    Figure 46



    34) Install the cleaned developer roller keyed end to the gear side. (DO not use any chemicals to clean this. A lint free cloth works fine. See Figure 47

    Figure 47
    Figure 47



    35) Set the developer roller shaft and feed roller shafts as shown. (Flat side up. See Figure 48

    Figure 48
    Figure 48



    36) Set the gears inside the end cap so that the two drive gears for these shafts have their flat side also on top. See Figure 49

    Figure 49
    Figure 49



    37) Install the gear end cap and two screws. You might have to turn the gears slightly for the end cap to fit in place. See Figure 50

    Figure 50
    Figure 50



    38) Place the triple gear on the developer roller shaft and fit into the spring assembly on the end cap. Install the end cap screw. See Figures 51 & 52

    Figure 51
    Figure 51



    Figure 52
    Figure 52



    Note that there are no metal contacts on this end cap as you would normally see. The contacts are there, but are now made of conductive plastic.

    39) On the waste chamber, remove the chip by cutting the plastic off the edges of both side of the chip and prying the locking tab back slightly. See Figures 53 & 54

    Figure 53
    Figure 53



    Figure 54
    Figure 54



    40) Remove and replace the chip. Make sure you have the correct color chip and the correct yield! See Figure 55

    Figure 55
    Figure 55



    41) If the new replacement chip is loose in the slot. Close off the top edges with small amounts of hot glue.

    42) Place the two halves together. See Figure 56

    Figure 56
    Figure 56



    43) Install the two pins. Large pin to the label or gear side of the cartridge. See Figures 57 & 58

    Figure 57
    Figure 57



    Figure 58
    Figure 58



    44) Install the two springs. See Figures 59 & 60

    Figure 59
    Figure 59



    Figure 60
    Figure 60



    45) Install the drum cover. This cover is important in that it separates the drum and developer roller helping to prevent a flat spot on the developer roller. See Figure 61

    Figure 61
    Figure 61




    Repetitive Defect Chart:

    Distance Our description
    27.0mm Primary Charge Roller
    32.0mm Developer Roller Sleeve
    42.0mm Registration Roller
    50.0mm Secondary Transfer Unit
    58.0mm Fuser Sleeve
    75.0mm OPC Drum
    69.0mm Fuser Pressure Roller

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