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  • Remanufacturing the HP LaserJet Enterprise M507/MFP M528 CF-289A/X/Y Toner Cartridge

    HP LaserJet Enterprise M507/MFP M528 CF-289A/X/Y
    HP LaserJet Enterprise M507/MFP M528 CF-289A/X/Y

    By Mike Josiah and the Technical Staff at Uninet.

    First introduced in April 2019, the LaserJet Enterprise M507 series of laser printers is based on 45ppm, 1200dpi engine that comes standard with 512Mb upgradable to 1.5GB Memory. The first page out is stated to be as fast as 5.9 seconds.

    Four different cartridges are available for this series, (three for the MFP series)
    CF289A rated at 5,000 pages
    CF289X rated for 10,000 pages
    CF289Y rated for 20,000 pages
    CF289YC Contract cartridge, rated for 20,000 pages

    The cartridges are similar in design to the M404 series, but are not interchangeable. The drum drive gear uses the now infamous patented Canon dongle gear. If you replacement drum with gears is not IP Protected, we have the gear replacement procedure outlined for you. See Figure 1 for a picture of the dongle gear.

    Figure 1
    Figure 1



    The printers released in this series so far are as follows:

    LaserJet Enterprise M507dn
    LaserJet Enterprise M507x
    LaserJet Enterprise MFP M528dn
    LaserJet Enterprise MFP M528f
    LaserJet Enterprise MFP M528z


    Supplies required

    LY toner for use in HP-M507 toner for the CF289A cartridge (5,000 pages)
    HY toner for use in HP-M507 toner for the CF289X cartridge (10,000 pages)
    EHY toner for use in HP-M507 toner for the CF289Y & YC cartridge (20,000 pages)


    • Replacement Chip (Yield dependent)
    • New Drum (Optional)
    • Wiper Blade (Optional)
    • Dr. Blade (Optional)
    • Magnetic roller (Optional)
    • Sealing Strip (Optional)
    • Cotton Swabs
    • Isopropyl Alcohol
    • Drum Padding Powder


    Tools Required


    • Jeweler’s screwdriver
    • Phillips head screw driver.
    • Small Common screw driver
    • X-Acto type razor knife
    • Flush Cutting wire cutters


    Tools required to remove and install used OEM gears


    • Metal 1/16” rod about 18” long (From local hardware store)
    • Needle nose Pliers
    • Super glue or equivalent
    • Rubber mallet
    • Ohm (Continuity) meter


    1) Remove the drum cover by prying up on each end. Note the spring position so that it can be replaced later. See Figures 2 & 3

    Figure 2
    Figure 2



    Figure 3
    Figure 3



    There are two pins that need to be removed to open the cartridge. The best and easiest way to remove them without damaging the cartridge is to cut two small slots in the plastic next to each of them.

    2) There are two small slots on opposite sides of each pin. See Figures 4 & 5.

    Figure 4
    Figure 4



    Figure 5
    Figure 5



    3) Grab the pins with a pair of pointed flush cutting wire cutters, and remove. Flush cutting wire cutters have blades that are flat on the bottom side. Normal wire cutters have curved blades. The flush cutting kind are better for grabbing recessed pins. Note that the pins for both sides are the same. See Figures 6, 7 & 8

    Figure 6
    Figure 6



    Figure 7
    Figure 7



    Figure 8
    Figure 8



    4) Separate the two halves. See Figure 9

    Figure 9
    Figure 9



    5) With a flat head screwdriver, press the drum axle pin out from the inside of the cartridge wall as shown. There is NOT a small shoulder as in older versions. Press the axle out just enough so that you can grab it with the flush cutting wire cutters. You may have to make two small cuts on each dies of the pin from the outside in order for the cutters to be able to grab it. See Figures 10, 11 & 12.

    Figure 10
    Figure 10



    Figure 11
    Figure 11



    Figure 12
    Figure 12



    The drum hub on the opposite side is welded. The weld can be broken or drilled out, but there is a good chance that the hub will either warp if pried off, or will be hard to align if drilled out. See Figure 13

    Figure 13
    Figure 13



    6) The drum dongle gear has a spring that holds it off to one side. (Necessary for it to engage the printer). Release the tail of the spring off the gear and remove the drum. See Figures 14 & 15.

    Figure 14
    Figure 14



    Figure 15
    Figure 15



    7) Remove the PCR and clean with your standard PCR cleaner. See Figure 16

    Figure 16
    Figure 16



    8) Remove the 2 screws and the Wiper Blade, there is an adhesive seal that hold the blade in place. Carefully lift it up. See Figure 17

    Figure 17
    Figure 17



    9) Clean out the waste toner, make sure the seals are clean. If toner gets on the blade seal it can be cleaned with alcohol to activate the adhesive again See Figure 18.

    Figure 18
    Figure 18



    10) Coat the wiper blade with your preferred lubricant. Install the blade and 2 screws. See Figure 19.

    Figure 19
    Figure 19



    11) Re-install the cleaned PCR. Note that a new OEM PCR has a small amount of conductive grease on the black (contact) side. See Figure 20.

    Figure 20
    Figure 20



    12) Re-Install the OEM OPC Drum and metal axle pin. The metal axle pin should have a small amount of conductive grease on the tip. Remove the old grease and replace before inserting the pin. Make sure the axle pin is fully inserted. See Figures 21 & 22

    Figure 21
    Figure 21



    Figure 22
    Figure 22



    If you are replacing the OEM drum, follow this procedure to remove the gears and install them on the new drum:

    13) Slide a 1/16" metal rod about 18" long along the drum wall until it meets the side wall of the dongle gear. Lightly tap the rod a few times with a hammer, rotate the drum, do the same until it comes loose. Normally it will take three to four taps for the gear to come loose. Do the same for the contact side taking care not to place the rod anywhere near the copper contacts that bite into the drum. See Figure 23

    Figure 23
    Figure 23



    14) Straighten out the contacts on the contact gear. See Figure 24

    Figure 24
    Figure 24



    15) Lightly sand the inside of the new drum where you will be installing the contact gear. This will help ensure good electrical contact. See Figure 25

    Figure 25
    Figure 25



    16) Apply a few drops of super glue around the inside of the new drum about 1/8” in from the edge. Make sure you leave space with no glue present for the contacts to touch the metal drum wall. These contacts must be metal to metal with no glue in between them. If any glue is in between the contacts and drum wall, there will be drum ground issues (solid black pages). Install the contact gear. See Figure 26

    Figure 26
    Figure 26



    17) On the opposite side, place a few drops of medium or thick super glue on the inside wall of the drum about 1/8”in from the edge. This will prevent the glue from overflowing into the drum coating when the drive gear is installed. See Figure 27

    Figure 27
    Figure 27



    18) Install the drive gear. Place the drum onto a flat surface and gently tap the gear with a rubber mallet until the gears sits flush. (Do not hit the dongle gear!) See Figure 28

    Figure 28
    Figure 28



    19) Check the drum ground with an ohm meter. Place the probes into the drum contact and drum (very edge on the drum where there is no coating), and check for continuity. Be very careful to keep the one lead on the edge of the drum. The top metal part has a clear protective coating on it and is easily scratched. Do not press in hard or the lead will slide across the drum ruining it. Allow the glue to dry for about a couple of minutes and the drum should be ready to use. See Figure 29

    Figure 29
    Figure 29



    20) On the supply chamber, remove the two screws from the end cap on the gear side of the cartridge. See Figure 30

    Figure 30
    Figure 30



    21) Remove the end cap. See Figure 31

    Figure 31
    Figure 31



    22) Remove the magnetic roller assembly. See Figure 32

    Figure 32
    Figure 32



    23) Remove the Doctor Blade and two screws. See Figure 33.

    Figure 33
    Figure 33



    24) Clean out any remaining toner from the hopper. Note the Dr. Blade seal. It is a sticky substance that can be clean with alcohol if toner gets on it. If this seal becomes damaged, replace it with 100% silicon caulk. See Figure 34.

    Figure 34
    Figure 34



    25) Remove the remnants of the old seal. These cartridges use a self-removing seal system. This picture shows a new cartridge with the seal starting to remove from right to left. See Figure 35

    Figure 35
    Figure 35



    At this time no new seals are available.

    26) Fill through the Mag roller opening with *g of toner for use in the HP CF226A or X series toner cartridges. There is not a fill plug in these cartridges. See Figure 36

    Figure 36
    Figure 36



    * Amount to be determined

    27) Re-install the doctor Blade and two screws. Make sure the contact sprint is touching the blade! This is a new type of contact for HP to use on this blade. See Figures 37 & 38

    Figure 37
    Figure 37



    Figure 38
    Figure 38



    28) Install the magnetic roller. Turn the roller until the keyed end fits into the keyed slot in the end cap. This can be tricky to do until you get the hang of it. The keyed magnet is shown extended from the sleeve. The proper orientation for the keyed side is facing down. See Figure 39

    Figure 39
    Figure 39



    29) Install the end cap and two screws. See Figure 40

    Figure 40
    Figure 40



    30) Place the two halves together, make sure that the two springs are aligned, and insert the two pins. Make sure that the pins are slightly pushed in so that they do not interfere with installing the cartridge in the printer. See Figures 41 and 42.

    Figure 41
    Figure 41



    Figure 42
    Figure 42



    31) Install the drum cover; make sure the spring is situated correctly, and the slot on the cover fits into the tab on the cartridge See Figures 43, 44 & 45

    Figure 43
    Figure 43



    Figure 44
    Figure 44



    Figure 45
    Figure 45



    32) Replace the chip by slicing off the top two corners of melted plastic and sliding the chip out. After replacing the chip if it seems a little loose in the slot, place a dab of hot glue on each of the corners that you sliced off. The hot glue is easily removed when recycling the cartridge again, but will firmly hold the chip in place. See Figures 46, 47 & 48

    Figure 46
    Figure 46



    Figure 47
    Figure 47



    Figure 48
    Figure 48


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